Mombasa

Highlights

• Fort Jesus, the Portuguese fortification that has changed hands more times than almost any building on the coast
• Old Town's narrow lanes, carved doors and balconies, best walked slowly in the morning with a guide who knows the families
• Swahili food done properly — biryani, coconut-rich curries, fresh seafood, and street snacks around the old quarter
• Haller Park, a rehabilitated limestone quarry now holding giraffe, hippo and an unusual conservation backstory
• Easy reach of both coasts: Nyali and Bamburi to the north, Diani and Tiwi to the south

Getting around

• Tuk-tuks and ride-hailing cover the island and the north coast cheaply.
• The Likoni ferry links the island to the south coast and is the main bottleneck — avoid it at rush hour if you can.
• The Nairobi train arrives at a terminus outside town; arrange a transfer rather than assuming taxis will be waiting.
• Old Town is a walking proposition. Park or be dropped at the edge.

Good to know

• Two to four nights is enough for the city itself; longer if you are using it as a base for both coasts.
• Dress modestly away from hotel beaches — this is a predominantly Muslim city and it is noticed.
• Walk Old Town early. By midday the heat makes it hard work.
• During Ramadan daytime eating options thin out considerably, and the evenings become the best time to be out.

Old Town is best explored with a guide, both for context and for navigation. Keep valuables out of sight on the ferry and in crowded markets, and agree tuk-tuk fares before setting off.